Losing your
pants is an old expression that you don't hear much
any more. But pants are arguably the focal point of
any clothing ensemble or wardrobe. Slacks, from basic
blue jeans to gray flannels, are the complement that
finishes off whatever we choose to wear.
Pants came to
the West from Eastern Europe in around the 5th
century; the Greeks and Romans until then traipsing
around in their traditional togas. Something tells me
the climate had something to do with this.
In a recent
article I wrote about casual dress in the work place
nearly everyone I interviewed remarked how lost and
confused most men were when it came to selecting
casual trousers for work. Most chose either khakis or
corduroys and that was the limit of their creativity.
It's rather
shocking when you consider all the choices in fabrics
and styles there are available for both summer and
winter. We've mentioned before that the Fairfield
Men's Store/suityourself.com offers a selection of
year-round, virtually wrinkle-free wools and
micro fibers. And now that summer is on the way
there'll be a wide selection of cool cottons, crisp
linens and airy seersuckers. And a new line from Nick
Hilton.
I'm of the
opinion casual pants should have cuffs just like more
formal trousers.
The story that
I've heard as to how cuffs got started is a strange
one. Around the turn of the century a famous British
aristocrat was visiting the United States. While
crossing a street somewhere he encountered a puddle of
water in the middle of the road. He rolled up his
trouser legs in order to keep them dry while he
tiptoed through the water and unconsciously left them
that way for the rest of the day. Voila, cuffs! The
man had so much prestige that those who met him
assumed his style of dress must be all the fashion in
Europe. So American men began wearing cuffs on their
pants in imitation.
Now
cuffs generally run anywhere from an inch to an inch
and a half wide. There was a movement to smaller cuffs
about 10 years ago, but the trend vanished.
There are,
however, some casual slacks that come with stitched
bottoms similar to jeans that are also quite stylish.
As to pleats versus flat fronts, both seem to be
happening right now. Pleats may be more comfortable if
you're a few pounds heavy and flat fronts can flaunt a
washboard stomach.
Trouser length should cover the socks and touch the
shoes. Personally, I would never hold my pants up with
anything but a belt. But if you remember the
"Wall Street" craze of the 80s, suspenders
or braces were all the rage as an alternative.
When I used to
take my son to prep school I noticed the boys wore
their pants two ways; either with a stiff crease down
the middle or as wrinkled as having slept in them.
For casual
slacks I like to start out the season with a dry
cleaning or wash and a nice crease. But I like the
worn look of pants as they go through the season,
especially linen and corduroy when they take on that
slightly roguish bohemian appearance. By the way, if
you fold freshly washed chinos or khakis stiffly on a
plastic or wooden hanger and dry them in the sun, you
won't need to iron them.
As for blue
jeans, I have a pet peeve. I HATE prewashed or
prefaded jeans. Why anyone would deliberately want a
fake, fulsome, fraudulent look like that is beyond
me?!
Blue jeans
should start out a deep blue. Then fade naturally over
time like a storybook revealing how often we cross our
legs, reach into our pockets and if we slouch or sit
up straight. An old pair of blue jeans has absorbed
the character and personality of its owner, if not a
work of art then surely a fine piece of artisanship.
Another thing
I never do is wear a denim shirt with jeans. It's
redundant, risible, and redolent of a suburban lack of
ingenuity. Too much of a good thing.
Something I
like to do is downgrade pants. Every new pair of
trousers are all-stars of course, first-team players
professionally and socially. But in time when the
whale in the corduroys gets a little thin and the
bottoms in the khakis get frayed, I relegate them to
around-the-house wear.
I'll go
shopping in them, watch TV, write, cook, go for walks,
bike. Just when they're on the last legs, I'll
subordinate them to garden work, landscaping and car
washing. Their final stage in life comes when I paint
the house in them. Then they die for good, giving new
meaning to the term rigor mortis.
Formal trousers are another matter. They usually last
longer because we wear them less. If styles don't
change drastically, and they haven't since the 60s and
bellbottoms, they should last 10 years or so. The
trick is you can't gain any weight. That is strictly a
no-no if you want to maintain your wardrobe.
I
have a pair of Calvin Klein brown herringbone tweeds
that I bought on sale for $60 in Bloomingdale's in
1982. I wore them more this year than in most because
it was colder than recent years. I'll have them dry
cleaned and see no reason they won't be ready for
action next winter. I've got a pair of tan,
tightly-woven linens that I bought at a
going-out-of-business sale on Eighth Street in the
West Village in 1985. I had shopped in the same store
as a teenager and it was a sad that the rents had
escalated and made business prohibitive. But it's one
of life's nice links that connects me with a store and
my youth. It all comes back when I put on those pants.
They look great with a blue blazer, by the way.
Talk about
all-stars, these two are vintage trousers, aged like
fine wine.
Relegated to house duty years ago, I've got a pair of
dark brown Club Room corduroys, bought in Macy's circa
1986, that I can't kill. I've been trying to ever
since my son said they were an old man's brown a few
years back. I wear them almost daily throughout the
winter, yet they refuse go away. They're thin in the
seat, thin in the knees, but no holes yet.
Another pet
peeve is people who wear shorts well before and well
after the summer season. Just the other day, with
barely the first whiff of spring (I was transplanting
some snow drops alongside my driveway), I saw a man in
a windbreaker, cap and SHORTS!
Don't
get me wrong, I love shorts. I wear shorts and sandals
to the office in the summer if I don't expect to see
anyone and am just writing and editing.
Most
of the comments about pants apply to shorts with an
even less insistence on a crease down the middle and
double the power of flat fronts to herald a washboard
stomach.
But
unless you're a German tourist or a transalpine yodler,
for whom all must be forgiven, wearing socks with
shorts is ab-so-lu-te-ly VERBOTEN!